Namibia
Etosha Waterholes
Gemsbokvlakte
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The name Gemsbokvlakte is an Afrikaans name, and simply means `the plain of the gemsbok` (Oryx). In Hai||om it is known as an open plain or small pan of water. During the dry season, many animals gather and it can become fairly hectic.
The sunken sheep dip style trough often overflows and forms a small pool behind it but the waterhole is situated in a depression so as the animals pile in to slake their thirst, only their upper parts are visible. Springbok, Zebra and Oryx were the main species noted here during several visits each holiday. Even so, Gemsbokvlakte is a popular spot with photographers, especially during afternoons when the lighting is more favourable. The source is a borehole assisted by a solar pump and the pumping station often spoils the best available angle on some of the animals. The view to the southwest is shown below. |
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Pictured above is the animal that gives this waterhole its name. The Gemsbok, or Oryx, is one of the characteristic animals of the arid areas of Southern Africa, adapted to living in deserts where there is no water to drink. It`s at home in vast open spaces under a fiery sun, even deserts with no shade whatsoever, although arid open grasslands are its preferred habitat. When deprived of drinking water the Oryx uses several measures to minimise its hydration requirements, notably allowing its body temperature to rise from a normal 35.7°C to 45°C (113F) which enables it to cool itself by sweating and nasal panting. It also absorbs all possible moisture from the surrounding air and concentrates its urine.
Lions can often be found here just after sunrise, usually lounging about after a kill, so it`s worth making an early check. This lioness was slaking her thirst on my last visit and judging by the blood stains on her face and forelegs she had already eaten although there was no sign of the victim`s remains. Cheetahs also use this waterhole and are also likely to appear in the early morning provided the lions are elsewhere.
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Lions in particular like to crash out in the shade provided by the concrete structures and can remain in this position for a while.
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Below: A wide angle view of Gemsbokvlakte waterhole from the southern end of the large car park. This section, being further away from the action, tends to become less congested with vehicles but the subjects are still within range of a decent telephoto lens. Also, as at other similarly open locations, animals will approach from any direction, often strolling right past the car - not a good place to have an arm dangling outside the window!
Pictured below on the left, surveying the scene at Gemsbokvlakte, is one of several Martial Eagles spotted over several days in the park but they were all quite far off. This distinctive raptor is Africa`s largest species of eagle and reputedly capable of knocking an adult man off his feet. The mature birds weigh in at almost 14 pounds (6.5 Kg.) with a wingspan of approximately 6 feet 4 inches. Other birds feature heavily in the Martial Eagles` diet and they have been known to have preyed on species as large as the European Stork although guineafowl, francolins, bustards are more commonly targeted. Mammals are also eaten from Hyrax up to small antelope and monkeys, plus occasionally snakes and large lizards.
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Any time I`ve been at this waterhole, there`s been plenty of avian activity, with numerous species coming and going including this Greater Kestrel and Crowned Lapwing. With no vegetation close to the waterhole during the dry season, the raptors usually perch along the distant tree lines bordering the site and swoop in to drink or catch their next meal.
Dust storms are often whipped-up even in only moderately windy conditions and blow across the plains to startle the animals drinking at the waterhole.
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Although morning shots have to be taken into the sun at Gemsbokvlate, if you can position your vehicle in the far right hand corner, towards the solar pump, the angle is okay. Although not particularly scenic, there is a 360 degree sweep, across a vast area of open ground so you get plenty of warning if anything of interest is on approach. I could see the backs of several elephants among the trees bordering the approach road from Okaukeujo and thought they may wander over.
Sure enough, by the time we returned from a drive out to Olifantsbad, which proved fruitless, a female tusker from the small herd was just approaching the water’s edge, scattering the Springbok, a couple of whom had young, in the process. A Warthog appeared too. A Giraffe wasn`t too far away but about turned on seeing the larger mammal which didn’t really budge from the concrete structure, so the shots aren’t great.
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Happy!
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Annoyed!
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Some of the Springbok were pawing at the dusty ground, apparently digging for grubs or seeds.
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