Namibia
Etosha Waterholes
Chudop
With a small reed bed at its centre Chudop waterhole, one of several within the territory of the large Namutoni Lion Pride, is particularly photogenic and definitely worth checking if you`re in the eastern side of the park. As this waterhole is so close to Namutoni Rest Camp, some visitors like to spend hours here, arriving just after first light and only leaving for a toilet break, or to head back to their accommodation at the end of the day.
The word Chudop is Hai||om and is a reference to the black mud found in and around this waterhole. The source is a natural spring within a large bowl-shaped depression and although the water level is gradually receding, availability remains constant. However, the volume reduces drastically towards the end of the dry season as I discovered on my last visit in October 2018. Then, one side bordering the reed bed had dried out completely to leave the floor of the waterhole badly cracked with an area of treacherous mud, which acted as quicksand and trapped unwary animals when they came to drink.
The Chudop Triangle, in the eastern section of the National Park, is the name given three of Etosha’s most productive waterholes, all of which can be comfortably reached during a drive from the Von Lindequist Gate or Namutoni. They are Kleine Namutoni, Koinichas, and of course Chudop itself. This is prime Cheetah territory so even the plains very close to the restcamp can turn up a few gems, especially early morning.
On my last holiday, I pulled over to photograph this Cheetah and her three cubs as they scanned the surrounding terrain for breakfast. Within minutes, a trio of Black-backed Jackals joined them at their lookout spot and surprisingly neither mother nor offspring seemed phased by their presence. There didn't seem to be much in the way of potential prey around for the sleek adult cat but it stealthily moved forward, with the cubs copying her every move. The Jackals followed on. She eventually launched at a Springbok but the accompanying Jackals, in full view, set alarm bells ringing. Mother Cheetah and cubs all sprinted after the fleeing antelope but it made good its escape.
On my last holiday, I pulled over to photograph this Cheetah and her three cubs as they scanned the surrounding terrain for breakfast. Within minutes, a trio of Black-backed Jackals joined them at their lookout spot and surprisingly neither mother nor offspring seemed phased by their presence. There didn't seem to be much in the way of potential prey around for the sleek adult cat but it stealthily moved forward, with the cubs copying her every move. The Jackals followed on. She eventually launched at a Springbok but the accompanying Jackals, in full view, set alarm bells ringing. Mother Cheetah and cubs all sprinted after the fleeing antelope but it made good its escape.
At Chudop, photographers can find the island of reeds in the centre a nuisance as it often screens animals when they bend down to drink, particularly when the water level is low. The parking area here, although large, can get fairly congested with vehicles jockeying for position and depending on where the subject is, you may not be able to get a decent view, at least not right away.
Having said that, the surrounding area is clear of vegetation and wide open with views towards the distant tree-line which means you get plenty of warning if anything interesting is on approach. It's worth checking behind you regularly too as animals, including lions, often wander across the parking area, usually when your attention is elsewhere - not the place to have an arm dangling out of the car window!
During our second visit to Etosha in 2015, we arrived at the Chudop car park to find these guys relaxing on the far side of the waterhole after a hearty breakfast! The grisly remains of their prey, with its eyes staring vacantly into space and its viscera lying alongside, was a testament to not only the lions` power, but also their appetite. Other animals, obviously desperate for a drink, wisely kept their distance. Leopard also visit Chudop but sightings are far less common.
Big cats are amongst the iconic species that symbolise Africa and its diverse wildlife. They also play an essential role in maintaining ecosystems. The populations of all these cats are declining rapidly due to uncontrolled human population expansion and the resulting encroachment on their habitat which reduces their natural prey. Poaching, disease, unsustainable hunting, and persecution by farmers and herders are just some of the many challenges they face.
Figures on how many lions there are in Africa today vary wildly, but what's clear is that numbers have decreased by around two-thirds in the last 50 years. According to the Africat Foundation there are just 600 to 800 wild lions left in Namibia, distributed between the Kunene Region, Etosha, and the north-eastern regions of Khaudum, the Nyae-Nyae Conservancy and the rivers bordering Botswana.
Like many of Etosha`s waterholes, Chudop`s open surroundings with little vegetation means that huge dust clouds can whip-up, tornado-style during the dry season without warning, even in relatively modest gusts.
Unsurprisingly, this usually spooks any animals present, and makes them wary that the reduced visibility could be concealing the approach of a predator. The impressive stampede below turned out to be the result of a false alarm - perhaps a mischevious Giraffe shouted "LION!!" |
This young Giraffe wasn`t so lucky and fell victim to this solitary male lion a couple of days later. The dead animal had no visible injuries but traces of blood could be seen around the big cat’s mouth. I expected it to start devouring its prey fairly soon but the lion was exhausted after bringing the animal down in the extreme heat. It wasn`t until the following morning that he began to devour the remains. By this time an audience comprising Wildebeest, Zebra and Impala was lining the slope above the kill, staying at a respectable distance. A Giraffe (below right), most likely the dead youngster’s mother kept up a vigil from the tree-line and was still there when we left an hour later.
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After feasting for a while, the lion needed to defecate, but rather than doing it right beside his food, he walked up the slope and did his business there. Surprisingly, he then back-kicked earth like a dog would to bury his faeces. This was the first time I`d witnessed this behaviour and assume that, as well as trying to keep his dining area free of contamination, it may have been an attempt to conceal his scent from larger rivals.
Also on our latest holiday, my wife and I were staking out Chudop one afternoon when this white Toyota pick-up arrived and rather than parking beside the other vehicles on the designated area, it drove down to the edge of the waterhole. Very unusual - especially when a police officer wearing camouflage, with an automatic rifle jumped out, and took up sentry duty!
The two other occupants, guys in casual gear, exited and it was only when I changed position that I realised there was a Kudu trapped in the mud on the far side of the reed bed. The water level here, like the other waterholes in the park this time round, was very low but almost half of the exposed mud at Chudop was just like quicksand.
The park staff managed to loop a line over the exhausted animal’s horns but despite pulling for all they were worth, just couldn't budge it. Another rope was added, attached to vehicle’s tow bar and the Kudu was unceremoniously dragged up the bank, by this time apparently dead.
As the rope was being removed, however, it sprang into the air, ran off in a panic and, yes you’ve guessed it - jumped straight back into the mud! The guys persevered and once again pulled the Kudu free but this time dragged it further away from the danger area before release. After an anxious few moments and a potential repeat performance, it finally trotted off into the forest.
Zebra stallions can be particularly viscous with one another and often inflict serious injuries during fights. One of the animals in the following slideshow has a rather nasty looking open wound, possibly a bite mark, low down on its left side.