Seaplane Flights

Seaplane Flights

Scotland

Latest Flight: October 2019

I first flew with Lomond Seaplanes back in July 2011, using a voucher I received for Christmas. At that time the company flew from Pacific Quay, next to the Science Centre near Glasgow City Centre, and I`d waited until the Tall Ships weekend, intending to capture the gathering of sail at Greenock from above.

On the Sunday, I was booked on the first flight of the day at 09:00 hrs and was at the quayside to see the plane touch down to start its working day. The Waverley was at her berth with the crew making last-minute preparations for her next voyage. A Kingfisher darted past just before the aircraft`s safety boat took up position in the centre of the river.

The pilot told everyone the route on boarding which took in the south bank of the River Clyde to Greenock before turning north and following the course of Loch Eck to Loch Fyne and Inveraray with the return over Bute. I assumed that he would have been aware of the event and would have tried to give everyone a view of the gathering at the James Watt Dock. Unfortunately, the plane passed directly above the event which meant the Tall Ships were completely hidden from view unless you were sitting in the front! With hindsight I should have asked the pilot before we took off if he could position the plane for photos.

Various factors contributed the company`s decision to move their operation from Glasgow to Loch Lomond with running costs playing a big part. The price of a berth and hire of a safety boat were expensive essentials. Also this stretch of the river had to be swept for logs, branches, discarded bottles and other flotsam before every take-off and landing.

The Clyde is fairly narrow here with no room for error, plus the arrival and departure of the Waverley, Glasgow`s Tall Ship the Glenlee, and high buildings lining each bank had to be taken into account. I also learnt that when an easterly wind was blowing, the plane sometimes had to taxi almost as far as Braehead for its `run up`.

The Maid of the Loch paddle steamer at Balloch, seen from Lomond Shores Visitors Centre.

This year (2018), I was lucky enough to be given another voucher for a flight with Loch Lomond Seaplanes, this time as a birthday present and, after having to cancel my first three booking dates within a fortnight due to high winds, I finally took to the air towards the end of the month. Now, the flights depart from the company`s small private jetty in front of the Cameron House Hotel on Loch Lomondside, a far more appropriate and scenic location than Glasgow City Centre.
Now, even before the plane takes to the air passengers are surrounded by magnificent countryside. I was glad the previous dates had been cancelled as the weather for my afternoon flight was superb, plus I was allocated the co-pilot`s seat!

Ben Lomond from the shore next to the seaplane parking area in the grounds of the Cameron House Hotel.

As well as shots taken from the seaplane each time, I`ve included general background information on the areas covered and added a selection of images taken previously on drives and hillwalks which will hopefully be of interest to anyone planning a visit, whether they intend to take a flight or stay firmly rooted on terra firma.

This is a busy stretch of water so before take-off, the pilot has to check for tour boats, pleasure craft, sailing dinghies, kayaks and jet-skis, as well as any light aircraft overhead. Partenavia P.68 G-RVNG on survey work made a couple of low-circuits directly above the jetty before flying away.

I was on the West Coast Explorer tour which, after a quick circuit above the southern end of the loch to let everyone see Ben Lomond, headed over the Luss Hills to the Kyles of Bute, taking in the Gare Loch and Loch Long en route. The pilot continued over the southern end of Loch Fyne, crossed the Kintyre peninsula at Tarbert and flew towards Jura before the return leg which provided a panoramic view of the Firth of Clyde, including the Isle of Bute and Arran`s jagged peaks.

Ben Lomond from Inveruglas to the north.

Ben Lomond is Scotland`s most southerly Munro, a mountain that reaches or exceeds 3,000 feet (914 metres). Its name literally means Beacon Hill, and was probably attributed due to the mountain`s prominence, standing as it does within 25 miles (40km) of Glasgow city centre, with its summit also visible from a large area of Central Scotland. The Ben is a magnet for day-trippers, families and tourists due to its proximity to Glasgow and as a result is one of the most-visited summits in Scotland. I`ve climbed the mountain numerous times in different seasons and the undertaking shouldn`t be underestimated, especially when ice or snow covers the ground, as the path comes very close to the sheer cliffs of the northeast corrie.

Rather than returning to Rowardennan on the Tourist Path, a descent via the Ptarmigan Ridge makes an interesting circuit. The Ptarmigan route leads off down the steep north-west ridge, with two rocky but straightforward sections to negotiate, before joining the Ptarmigan path proper. This winds along the knobbly ridge, passing a small lochan just before reaching the high point (731m) that gives the ridge its name. Although this route is not difficult it is initially far steeper than the Tourist Path and requires care. The constant procession of walkers has left the hillside badly scarred and continuous efforts are made to combat erosion and maintain the main route to the top.

Looking across the southern end of Loch Lomond from the Ben as the light begins to fade.

Inchconnachan, the largest island in the above shot, is one of the cluster of islands that define the scenic, sheltered channel known as `the Narrows`. On either side of the Narrows, tucked in against the water`s edge against either this island or Inchtavannach on the opposite side, yachts and motor cruises berth in summer and day-trippers explore the wooded interiors or picnic on the shore.

Inchconnachan`s main claim to fame is bizarrely where Loch Lomond`s colony of Red-necked Wallabies live. Lady Arran, who had a holiday home on the island, was responsible for bringing the animals to Inchonnachan in the 1970s. She was formerly the fastest woman on water having broken her last power boat record at the age of 62.

Despite harsh winters the small marsupials thrived but for many years their existence wasn`t common knowledge. In the early 1980s, following a night-time road accident on the A82 when a tanker ended up in a ditch, the police breathalysed the driver, despite his protests that he was stone cold sober, when he insisted that he was forced to swerve to avoid a Kangaroo! I managed to snap this little chap on the island years ago and as far as I know they`re still hopping about but you`ve not much chance of spotting one from the seaplane. The Wallabies tend to remain hidden in dense undergrowth but occasionally one or two are spotted at the waters edge, particularly late in the day when they come down to drink.

The only dwelling on Inchconnachan is a bungalow, with its own jetty, built in the 1920s by a man thought to have been a returning tea plantation owner, or a retired naval officer, or possibly both as he was known as Admiral Sulivan. He lived there for a number of years until finances, or lack of them, forced him to vacate the island. The bungalow was subsequently bought by William C. Buchanan, a Glasgow stockbroker but I`m unsure of its current status.

Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park is home to a tremendous variety of wildlife with the largest species being the Red Deer but there are also Roe and I`ve encountered Fallow Deer with white coats on several occasions, over on the east side of the loch in the woods north of Balmaha. These animals are occasionally observed, usually very early in the morning, swimming across to Inchcailloch or one of the other close-to-shore islands to feed. A couple of the other islands, including Inchmoan (above right) have excellent beaches.

Inchailloch is the most easterly of the Loch Lomond islands which define the line of the Highland Boundary Fault. a geographical feature which marks the southern limit of glacial expansion at the end of the last Ice Age. Inchailloch may not be the loch`s largest island but it lies very close to shore making it one of the easiest to access, usually from nearby Balmaha from where a Mail boat / passenger ferry operates year-round. The more energetic can hire their own small craft or rent a kayak. There is a nature trail on the island and a camp site at Port Bawn bay at its south end. Port Bawn means `white port`.

The name Inchcailloch means `Isle of the old woman` or `Isle of the Hooded Woman` in the Scottish Gaelic language. The island is thought to be named after Saint Kentigerna, an Irish woman who went to Scotland from Ireland to preach and spread Christianity. She is not to be confused with St Kentigern. a male Saint who is more commonly known as St Mungo. Inchcailloch had a church dedicated to St Kentigerna, which was the parish church until 1621, but the graveyard remained in use until 1947. An old tale said that the bones of a woman were found under the altar stone during an excavation. The moss-covered Clan MacGregor burial ground includes some of Rob Roy's ancestors. The above shot, looking towards Conic Hill (361m) was taken from the high point on the Inchcailloch nature trail.

Left: Conic Hill from Luss. The Drymen to Balmaha section of the West Highland Way, Scotland`s first long distance walking route, traverses Conic Hill and descends to meet Loch Lomond for the first time, continuing all the way up the increasingly rugged eastern shore. Many find the stretch between Inversnaid and Glen Falloch near Inverarnan particularly heavy going.

The world famous route, which opened in 1980, stretches 97 miles between Milngavie just north of Glasgow to Fort William town centre, taking walkers through some of the best scenery in the country, including Glen Coe, Rannoch Moor and Glen Nevis.

The tiny village of Balmaha can become a hectic place in summer when numerous coach tours and day-trippers descend, quickly filling the available car parks.

Inchmurrin is the largest and most southerly of Loch Lomond`s islands and although it is heavily wooded there are a number of buildings including a bar and restaurant. The island`s high point towards its north end reaches 89 metres (292 ft) and provides an excellent view of the surroundings. Inchmurrin was the site of a 7th-century monastery, with a chapel dedicated to Saint Mirin, after whom it was named. The island is served by a small passenger ferry.

There are scant ruins of Lennox Castle, thought to have been built for Duncan, 8th Earl of Lennox, whose seat was at nearby Balloch Castle at the south end of the loch. The castle on Inchmurrin was probably a hunting lodge for the deer park established on the island by King Robert I of Scotland (Robert the Bruce) in the early 14th century.

The main tops of the Luss Hills cover a large area and walkers usually take several visits to climb them all. Beinn Dubh and Mid Hill (above) are closest to Luss and make a fairly leisurely circuit from the village but they are often climbed along with Doune Hill (734m) and Beinn Eich (703 metres). The southern tops of Beinn Chaorach, Beinn Tharsuinn, Creag an Leinibh and Beinn Ruisg can also be climbed together, but usually from Glen Fruin. In the above view taken from the seaplane, Luss village is just right of centre with the jagged outline of the Cobbler on the right-hand skyline.

The Arrochar Alps is the collective name given to the Cobbler, Beinn Narnain, Ben Ime, Ben Vorlich and Ben Vane. The group can be accessed either from Loch Lomond to the east or from the A83 Glen Croe road which skirts the head of Loch Long and winds its way uphill to the Rest-and-be-Thankful en route to Inveraray and Loch Fyne. The view below right shows a group and an energetic wee dog climbing the Cobbler on a fine winter`s day.

The rugged skyline formed by the peaks of the Arrochar Alps can be admired from many angles and none are situated far from the Clyde sea lochs, indeed some rise directly from their shores. In addition to the five main summits, several other adjacent mountains which hem in the A83 `Rest` road are generally accepted as part of the group: The Brack, Ben Donich, Beinn an Lochain (above, left and bottom right), Beinn Luibhean and Binnein an Fhidhleir, all of which are worth exploring.

This long distance view of an Emirates Triple-seven on approach to Glasgow International Airport emphasises the dramatic nature of the hills to the west of Loch Lomond. It was taken from the Gleniffer Braes Country Park above Paisley when easterly winds brought Runway 05 into use rather than the more common `23`. A telephoto lens of 400mm or above is required for decent shots from this location plus it`s not very often that winds, excellent visibility and a good covering of snow combine with the arrival of a wide-bodied airliner.

Although Doune Hill is the highest summit of the Luss group I prefer Beinn Dubh for its views of Loch Lomond. A signpost from the car park in Luss Village directs walkers onto a footbridge over the A82 to join the Glen Luss road.

A path then leads onto Beinn Dubh`s wide grassy southeast ridge which is followed to the top. These shots were taken when a temperature inversion resulted in a blanket of low cloud covering the southern end of the loch. The high tops, however, from Ben Lomond, northwards as far as the eye could see, were all standing clear in the sunshine.

A settlement has probably existed where Luss village now stands since the 1300s, when there was a church dedicated to St Kessog who lived here seven hundred years previously. The Luss you see today owes much to the local land owners, the Colquhouns, who stayed in nearby Rossdhu Castle. In the early 1800s they rebuilt much of the village, in part to house workers for the nearby slate quarries. These cottages, which have since been extensively renovated, give the village much of its character and Luss has become a magnet for day-trippers and coach parties - possibly a place to avoid during the peak summer months.

Luss Parish Church has an interesting history with no less than 15 ancient monuments in its graveyard. The present church, on the same site as the one founded by St Kessog, dates from 1875. The village pier and adjacent stretch of shoreline can be good places for watching the sun come up.

Well wrapped-up against the cold, Kayakers set out from Luss on a fine spring day with snow-covered Conic Hill in the background.

Above: The southern Luss Hills: Loch Finlas Reservoir and a view of Helensburgh taken from Ardmore Point with one of the high tops in the background.

RFA Tidespring (A136), is one of four Tide-class tanker units built by Daewoo Shipbuilding & Marine Engineering Co. in South Korea for the Royal Fleet Auxiliary. A confirmed order for the four ships was placed in February 2012 at a cost of £452 million, causing controversy in the UK but no British yards had tendered for the contract as they were all working to capacity on the Queen Elizabeth-class aircraft carriers. A&P Group`s yard at Falmouth was tasked with outfitting the Tides with sensitive equipment following completion. Tidespring was at Faslane in connection with Joint Warrior 18:1, a large-scale military exercise which took place between 24 April and 4 May 2018 in the waters off Scotland`s west coast.

The new tankers, which are significantly larger than their predecessors, will be used to deliver fuel, food and stores to Royal Navy warships deployed worldwide. In addition, they will be capable of carrying out a wide range of maritime operations such as anti-piracy patrols, policing shipping lanes and delivering humanitarian aid. They will also be used to provide support to NATO and other coalition allies. The Tides can operate helicopters including Chinook, Merlin or Wildcat helicopters from their flight decks.

Tidespring`s three sister ships are named Tiderace, Tidesurge and Tideforce respectively, titles revived from Cold War era oilers. The most famous of these, the previous Tidespring, earned a battle honour in 1982 for her service during the Falklands War, which included transporting a company of Royal Marines to recapture South Georgia. The shot, above right, of Tidespring passing Rhu Spit was taken when she slipped out of HMNB Clyde, early morning on Sunday 22 April en route to the JW exercise area. Unfortunately the visibility wasn`t great so the aerial shots from the seaplane a week later were a real bonus.

Above: In this view, Loch Long cuts across left to right with Loch Goil branching off midway in the distance. The peninsula to the right of this junction is comprised of three main summits which are, running north to south, Cnoc Coinnich (761m), The Saddle (521m) and Beinn Reithe (663m). Despite their modest elevation a compulsory sea-level start means that a traverse of all three can easily pass the best part of a day.

Ardgartan alongside the A83 Rest-and-be-Thankful road at the foot of Glen Croe is a possible starting point but it`s better scenically to drive to Lochgoilhead village where the Cowal Way leads past the Post Office and climbs over the hillside between Ben Donich and Cnoc Coinnich.

In addition to fine mountain scenery the southern end of this peninsula offers a sweeping panorama of the Gare Loch and the Clyde Estuary as well as superb views of any tankers or naval vessels as they head towards Finnart or Glenmallan. The two southernmost hills, The Saddle and Beinn Reithe, are the best perches if there are any ships. I took the above shot of Front Opalia, a 333 metre-long tanker, berthed at the oil terminal the last time I did the climb which was well before the landmark chimney of the decommissioned Inverkip Power Station was demolished by controlled explosions on Sunday 28 July 2013.

Some of the tanks at Finnart Oil Terminal are partially visible on the left with the Gare Loch and Clyde Submarine Base directly above in the distance. The large shed at Coulport can be seen towards the right hand side with the power station`s chimney immediately recognisable beyond, despite the haze.

Above: Over the hill from Faslane, on the east side Loch Long several kilometres south of Glenmallan and the Finnart Oil Terminal, is RNAD Coulport (Royal Naval Armaments Depot) which is the storage and loading facility for the nuclear warheads of the United Kingdom's Trident programme. The base, the last in the UK to retain the "RNAD" designation, has up to 16 reinforced concrete bunkers built into the hillside to house the weapons. The depot was established during the Cold War as the storage and loading facility for Polaris nuclear weapons. Today, Coulport is mainly used for handling Trident warheads.

Above: Another hill walking shot. This is a view from Creachan Mor, a nice hill of modest height (331m) that can be climbed comfortably from Carrick Castle on the west side of Loch Goil which lies hidden below the cloud as does Loch Long. Just after I`d put my camera away a pair of RAF Tornadoes flew into the scene and stayed just above the clouds as they continued over Loch Goil and disappeared over the ridge to the north.

Left: Carrick Castle photographed on a fine, still morning. Although this keep dates mainly from the 1600s there may have been a stronghold here since the 13th century. It lies in a commanding position on the west side of Loch Goil, about 6 km south of Lochgoilhead. Mary Queen of Scots paid a visit in 1563 but nowadays the main people to call in are day-trippers from Glasgow and passengers on the Waverley.

Below: More views from Creachan Mor. The village at Carrick Castle can be seen in the left-hand shot.

My flight coincided with the departure of MPI Adventure, a huge wind turbine installation vessel which had been berthed at Inchgreen Dock for some time. Designed to transport, lift and install wind turbines and their foundations, she is the world’s most advanced and most efficient WTIV, in terms of jacking speed, deck space, lifting capacity and positioning capabilities.

MPI Adventure`s main crane has the capacity to lift 1,000-tonnes plus there`s a 50-tonne-capacity auxiliary crane enabling her to transport, lift, install and decommission components such as foundations, wind turbines, met masts and transformer stations. The vessel`s next port of call was Vlissingen, in southwestern Netherlands, on the former island of Walcheren. With its strategic location between the Scheldt river and the North Sea, Vlissingen has been an important harbour for centuries.

The Kyles of Bute form a narrow sea channel that separates the northern end of the Isle of Bute from the Cowal peninsula in Argyll and Bute on the mainland. The Kyles are split into the East and West Kyles, the East running from Rothesay Bay northwest up to the entrance to Loch Riddon. Here at the northern end of the East Kyle are the Burnt Islands and the island of Eilean Dubh. The West Kyle runs from here southwest, past the village of Tighnabruaich and out to the Sound of Bute. The area is a designated National Scenic Area.

The Waverley heads through the Kyles in the afternoon sunshine.

Although she now operates the five-minute crossing from Colintraive to Rhubodach on Bute, CalMac`s MV Loch Dunvegan, Loch Dùnbheagan in Gaelic, was originally designed to sail between Kyle of Lochalsh and Kyleakin on Skye. She moved to her current post when the Skye Bridge was completed in October 1995 - after a brief retirement and a stint of repairs on the Clyde.

Tighnabruich village stands on the Cowal peninsula, on the western arm of the Kyles of Bute, and is a popular tourist destination, especially with the yachting fraternity and there is a sailing school here. Up until the late 1960s, when the road to Ormidale was built, the residents had to rely mainly on waterborne transport for passenger and freight services.

Passenger services on and around the Clyde were developed after Henry Bell`s Comet, built at Port Glasgow, began passenger sailings in 1812. Initially the paddle-steamer plied between Glasgow, Greenock and Bell`s hotel in Helensburgh sailing three times a week but it didn`t take long before cruises through the Kyles around Bute, to Arran and along Loch Fyne were on offer. Bell`s innovation was the first successful passenger steamboat service in Europe.

There is a full-scale replica of the historic vessel on open-air display close to the waterfront in Port Glasgow. A monument to Bell (7 April 1767 – 14 March 1830) was erected on the seafront at Helensburgh and he is buried in the graveyard of the nearby Rhu Church where this fine sculpture stands atop his tomb.

The first pier at Tighnabruich was thought to have been built in the 1830s, to accommodate paddle steamers and Clyde Puffers which provided a vital link connecting Glasgow and major coastal towns with remote settlements along Scotland`s western seaboard including island communities.

The wooden pier was rebuilt in 1885 by the Tighnabruaich Estate but the local council are now responsible for its upkeep. Shinty is the major sport in the area and the village is home to Kyles Athletic who have won many Camanachd Cup finals over the years.

Portavadie on the remote eastern shore of Loch Fyne, was a village of just a few houses until the marina and resort were built in 2010 by the Bulloch family, one of the richest in Scotland. It’s since become a sought after destination for boating enthusiasts from around Britain and beyond.

Tarbert is built around East Loch Tarbert, an inlet of Loch Fyne, and extends over the isthmus which links the peninsula of Kintyre to Knapdale and West Loch Tarbert. Its picturesque harbour, overlooked by the scant remains of Tarbert Castle, is now a magnet for sailors, but in years gone by this was a bustling fishing
community with the Loch Fyne herring fishery attracting hundreds of vessels to the immediate area. In the following shot, taken on a fine spring day, the ivy-clad keep of Tarbert Castle is on the skyline, just left of centre.

The village occupies a once-prized strategic position, guarding access to Kintyre and the Inner Hebrides and its name is an anglicised form of the Gaelic word tairbeart, which literally translates as `carrying across`, a reference to the narrowest strip of land between two bodies of water over which goods or entire boats could be transported.

In the late 11th century, Magnus Barefoot, King of Norway, had his longship hauled across the isthmus at Tarbert to signify his possession of the Western Isles. Trees, where available, would often be cut down and trimmed then placed to act as rollers under the boats which would speed progress.

Viking raiders also used this tactic to move their longships from the head of Loch Long, a sea loch, to the inland waters of Loch Lomond where they were relaunched, allowing the Norsemen to plunder the island monasteries and shore based settlements before following the River Leven to its confluence with the Clyde and the open sea.

The Kennacraig - Islay route is usually served by MV Hebridean Isles and MV Finlaggan. The former vessel is pictured here at the mainland terminal. Islay has two ferry terminals, one at Port Ellen at the south end of the island and the other, Port Askaig on its east side, further north. Scheduled departures or arrivals may be changed to the alternate port at the last minute as a result of weather and tidal conditions.

Above: Looking north up the west coast of Knapdale near Kilberry: Loch Caolisport and Loch Sween can be made out in the distance. The western shore of the peninsula separating these inlets holds one of the oldest castles in Scotland, Castle Sween. The fortress was built in the 12th century when this part of the country was still under Norse rule. It is thought that the name Sween derives from Sueno, an 11th century King of Denmark. The substantial ruins consist of a curtain wall enclosing a rectangular courtyard and a 15th or 16 century tower. The castle is worth exploring but unfortunately access is now via a busy caravan and holiday park which spoils the otherwise fine location although the views out to sea are unaffected.

Also on the eastern side of Loch Sween is Kilmory Knap Chapel. The 13th century structure holds a large collection of Early Christian cross slabs, medieval graveslabs and standing crosses that date from the 14th to 16th centuries. It is thought that the Knights Templar may have taken refuge in this area after fleeing from persecution in France.

Many of the slab carvings are similar to those found elsewhere on Scotland`s West Coast. Some feature individual animals and there`s one with a hunting scene of deerhounds killing a stag.

A CalMac ferry crossing from Kennacraig to Islay.

There`s an airport on Islay but several years ago one intrepid flyer caught the media`s attention by landing on the island - but miles away from the runway!

Gandalf, a seven-year-old (despite the name) female Ruppell's Griffon Vulture and star attraction at the World of Wings Bird of Prey Centre, Cumbernauld, flew off during a display in March 2014.

This was the second time that the bird, which has a 10.5ft wingspan and can soar up to 37,000ft, had vanished from the centre.

In August 2010 she went missing for a week and was found perching on a disused brickworks near Falkirk. On the second occasion Gandalf had been harassed by three buzzards which attacked as she performed her aerial routine at the centre and, in a panic, she just kept flying. As the days went by with no sightings, staff began to fear the worst, but Gandalf`s keeper received a telephone call from a farmer 100 miles away on the Hebridean island saying that he`d spotted the huge bird on his land. Gandalf was captured by a local bird expert, temporarily caged and returned to Cumbernauld. Fortunately, like the previous time, she was very hungry and unsurprisingly a bit grumpy but otherwise none the worse for wear - and oblivious to all the attention that her adventure had generated.

Islay is the most southerly of the Inner Hebrides and is well known across the world for the distinctive peat-flavoured single malt whiskies that it produces. Not everyone is quite as desperate for a taste as this visitor to Bruichladdich Distillery though! Malt produced by the northern distilleries including Bunnahabhain (pronounced Boona hah ven) are milder than those produced by the distilleries at the south end of the island but all have a distinctly peaty taste.

Below: This distorted reflection at Bunnahabhain shows how some visitors may view their surroundings after a distillery tour!

Although lacking the more spectacular mountains of Skye, Mull and neighbouring Jura, Islay has large tracts of upland with several tops in excess of 300 metres, most of which lie in the southeast of the island. Rather than its hills, however, Islay is more associated with its excellent beaches and its birdwatching, especially during autumn and winter when tens of thousands of geese take up residence. The island is also a good spot for spring migrants and supports a wide variety of breeding species.

Two large sea lochs, Loch Gruinart to the north and the larger Loch Indaal to the south, almost separate Islay`s northwest elongated chunk known as the Rhinns from the main body of the island. There are also some magnificent sea cliffs, the most outstanding being those of the Oa close to the island`s capital Port Ellen and Sanaigmore near the north end of the Rhinns.

Looking northeast from the east side of Loch Indaal on Islay, over the north end of the island to the distant hills of Jura.

One of Islay`s best-known historical attractions is the Kildalton Cross, also known as the High Cross of Kildalton, which dates from the second half of the 8th century and is one of the finest early Christian crosses in Scotland. Of Celtic design, it is very similar to three crosses from the same era that can be found on the island of Iona. The cross stands within the grounds of the Old Parish Church of Kildalton near the island`s southeast corner. The building is thought to date from the late 12th or early 13th century and has some impressive grave slabs carved with armour-clad warriors within.

The Kildalton Cross is made from a single slab of local stone and stands 2.65 metres high, reaching 1.32 metres across at its widest point. The design features angels, serpents, David fighting a lion, birds feeding on grapes, plus Virgin and Child, as well as scenes from the biblical story of Cain and Abel. By the mid-nineteenth century the cross was in danger of toppling over so it was temporarily removed. This revealed a much smaller cross under the foundations and below that lay the remains of a man and woman. A new plinth was constructed to improve stability before the main cross was replaced in its original socket stone.

The picturesque village of Portnahaven can be found at the southern tip of the Rhinns of Islay. It`s rows of white houses are built around a sheltered bay with a narrow strip of sand at its head. This was a planned village, built during the 1800s to support the local fishing and crofting community, and no doubt in its heyday it would have been a hive of activity. Nowadays, it`s a fine place to linger and watch the small shellfish boats come and go, especially in the sunshine and when the tide is right for the seals to come into the bay.

The whitewashed church at Portnahaven was designed by Thomas Telford and also serves the neighbouring village of Port Wemyss. Somewhat unusually, it has separate doors for the congregation members from each community. Just offshore is the island of Orsay which contains a small chapel and the Rhinns of Islay lighthouse, one of many constructed by the Stevensons. Its warning light can be seen from up to 40km away in clear conditions.

Compared with its larger, flatter neighbour, Jura (below) is a wild place. Its name means `Deer Island` in Norse and there is still a large population of these large creatures, outnumbering the human inhabitants many times over.

The only way to set foot on Jura, unless you have your own boat (or Seaplane) is via the short ferry hop across the fast-flowing Sound of Islay to Feolin from Port Askaig (left) on Islay. The Jura Ferry is operated by ASP Ship Management Ltd., rather than Caledonian MacBrayne and the current vessel, Eilean Dhiura, was commissioned by Argyll and Bute Council in 1998.

Craighouse is Jura`s main centre with a hotel - the only one on the island, a distillery and little else. Most people come to experience the wild atmosphere with many taking the opportunity to climb at least one of `The Paps` while they`re there.

The author George Orwell (25 June 1903 – 21 January 1950), real name Eric Arthur Blair, stayed at the remote Barnhill house for several years and penned his famous book 1984. Beyond the north end of the island, between Jura and Scarba, is the Gulf of Corrvreckan and its infamous whirlpool. Strong Atlantic currents and unusual underwater topography conspire to produce a particularly intense tidal race in the channel. As the flood tide enters the narrow area between the two islands it speeds up drastically and seabed features, including a deep hole and a rising pinnacle, combine to create swirls, standing waves and a variety of other surface effects which make Corryvreckan the third largest whirlpool in the world.

The round of the Paps of Jura, in the southern half of the island, is a true Scottish classic hillwalk. These three great cones of rock and scree that dominate the massif give a challenging walk with stunning views on a clear day. The highest of the three is Beinn an Oir (785m/2,576 ft) , the Mountain of Gold, and Jura`s only Corbett, the name given to a Scottish mountain between 2,500 and 3,000 ft. Beinn Shiantaidh, the Sacred Mountain (757m/2,477 ft) stands to the east of Beinn an Oir, while Beinn a’ Chaolais, the Mountain of the Sound, stands to the south-west and is the smallest of the three at 734m/2,407 ft. Cora Bheinn, the steep mountain, stands at a height of 569 m/1893 ft to the north-east of Beinn Shiantaidh and, while not considered to be one of the Paps, is part of the same group.

The Jura Fell Race, held every year in May, ranks as one of the toughest challenges in Scotland when it comes to skills such as endurance, mountaincraft and fell running techniques. The 16 mile-long route takes in seven summits, including the three Paps, with the record currently standing at 3:06:59 for a man and 3:45:31 for a woman.

I`ve never been to Gigha, this small, fertile island which lies off the west coast of Kintyre. Part of Argyll & Bute, it has a population of around 160 people. The climate is mild with higher than average hours of sunshine.

Gigha, the ancestral home of Clan MacNeill, has been inhabited continuously since prehistoric times and may have had an important role during the Kingdom of Dalriada. It fell under the control of the Norse and the Lords of the Isles before becoming incorporated into modern Scotland and saw a variety of conflicts during the medieval period.

The population of Gigha peaked at over 700 in the eighteenth century, but during the 20th century the island had numerous owners, which caused various problems and restricted the island`s development. By the beginning of the 21st century the number of residents had fallen to just 98, however a `community buy-out` in 2002, transformed the island, which now has a growing population and a variety of new commercial activities to complement farming and tourism. Nowadays most people call to visit Achamore Gardens and witness the abundant wildlife, especially seabirds. There have been numerous shipwrecks on the surrounding rocks and skerries. When the weather permits, there are fine views, especially out across the Sound to Islay and Jura.

Although the perspex windows are very clean, depending on the light, it can be impossible to reduce reflections, even using a polarising filter. The above view shows an Islay ferry about to enter West Loch Tarbert on the return to Kennacraig.

Arran, visible in the distance, is a kidney-shaped island that occupies an area approximately 20 miles long by 10 miles wide. It enjoys a mild climate, protected to a degree from the worst of the Atlantic storms by the Kintyre peninsula.

For a relatively small island, Arran has a tremendous diversity of interesting features which include the stunning scenery, geology, historical sites including standing stones and castles, plus the resident wildlife. There are even a few nice beaches including this one at Brodick, the island`s capital.

Left: A curious resident near the summit of Goatfell. The above view of the mountain was taken from the ferry as it approached Brodick pier. Brodick Castle, a Baronial home currently under the care of the National Trust for Scotland, can be seen on the right.

The high mountains are all in the north and form three parallel groups stretching roughly south to north. Nearest the west coast, rising behind the hamlet of Pirnmill, is Beinn Bharrain (721m), (above) an isolated twin-topped hill, less craggy than its taller neighbours, although there is some unavoidable scrambling if the ascent or descent is made via the east side of Coire Roinn.

Goatfell, at 874 metres, is one of the best-known mountains in Scotland with a striking appearance when seen from the mainland, especially when covered with snow on a crisp winter`s morning. The mainland ferry terminal at Ardrossan can can be reached from Glasgow by car in under an hour then a leisurely sail puts walkers within comfortable range of Arran`s highest peaks.

This photo shows an interesting geological feature of Arran granite - the Cyclopean buttress. The effect was created millions of years ago when the rock cracked as it cooled down following volcanic activity. Subsequent weathering along the hairlines resulted in the mass of cubic blocks seen today.

The Central Ridge (above), includes three Corbetts and its traverse is regarded as one of the island`s classic mountaineering expeditions. The four summits of Beinn Nuis, Beinn Tarsuinn, Cir Mhor and Caisteal Abhail, offer an 8 kilometre-long high-level route with only one section, the rocky spine of A`Chir, (the Comb) inaccessible to non-climbers. Considering that the island`s mountains cover a relatively small area there is a wilderness feel to these hills, emphasised by the fact that the majority of hillwalkers head for Goatfell.

Above: The Goatfell ridge and Lochranza Bay at the north end of Arran seen from the seaplane. It was an entirely different scene just a few weeks earlier when late snowfall blanketed the mountains. I took the following view of Arran`s high tops from a Dublin-bound flight in mid-March when they looked distinctly alpine. The rainbow occurred above Whiting Bay on the island`s east coast shortly after a summer downpour.

Lochranza is the most northerly of Arran's villages and due to its low-lying situation with hills on three sides, it`s reputed to have among the least hours of sunshine of any village in the United Kingdom. The village is set on the shore of Loch Ranza, a small sea loch and ferries connect with Claonaig on the mainland for most of the year, weather permitting. CalMac`s MV Loch Tarbert is pictured below approaching Lochranza pier but this vessel was replaced by the MV Catriona in September 2016.

Like Tarbert on the mainland, Lochranza was formerly a busy herring fishing port, but the economy is now geared more towards tourism, although the Arran Distillery (above right), producing the Arran Single Malt since the mid-1990s, does a fair trade both at home and for the export market. The distillery is one of the island`s main industries along with farming and fishing, mainly for shellfish. The bar of the Lochranza Hotel, to the north of the distillery, prides itself with one of the largest collections of Scotch whisky available in the country with over 350 different types on offer.

This unoccupied castle stands in a fine position on a spit of land on the south shore of Lochranza Bay. The original fortress dates from the 13th or 14th century but it was extensively remodelled in the 16th century. Reputedly Robert the Bruce used the stronghold as a hunting lodge and centuries later forces loyal to Oliver Cromwell captured it in the 1650s.

The whole island is excellent for wildlife but Lochranzra is one of the best spots. As well as being very scenic, deer often stroll down to the water`s edge to eat the seaweed which obviously has sought after mineral properties. Seals bask in the bay at low tide and I`ve watched Gannets plunge diving for fish very close to shore here. Otters and Golden Eagles are also spotted in the area.

During one visit to the island during the month of May, this Oystercatcher had laid her eggs on the shingle spit right beside Lochranza Castle. I stopped there three times during my stay and on each occasion saw the bird being forced off her nest by numerous visitors who had unwittingly wandered too close.Undeterred, the bird would run at anyone she thought was on course to trample her well-camouflaged eggs and successfully persuaded them to change direction. The chances of the eggs surviving to hatch seemed slim but on the last day of my visit I was surprised to see the bird helping the first of her chicks into the world.

The short walk to see the standing stones on Machrie Moor, on Arran`s west coast, is one of the island`s best low-level excursions. The main site and surrounding area contain a significant collection of prehistoric monuments, including not only standing stones but stone circles, hut circles and chambered cairns. Machrie Moor itself contains six separate stone circles and apart from the archaeological interest there`s usually a good chance of spotting some of the wildlife the island is famed for.

The most impressive circle, with three sandstone slabs (above), one of which reaches 18 feet (5.5m), has been designated Circle No.2 by archaeologists. Its other stones have long since broken but portions of some can still be seen. A number of excavations have taken place on this site and it has been established that people first settled here around 3,500BC but the stone circles themselves were not erected until 1,000 years later.

The following gallery includes aerial views of Bute taken during the West Coast Explorer tour...

During the Viking era, the Isle of Bute was known as Rothesay, and this name was eventually taken by the main town which is now the island`s capital.

Although Bute straddles the divide between highland and lowland Scotland with the Highland Boundary Fault cutting across the island, the terrain, unlike nearby Arran, is hilly rather than mountainous. The highest point is Windy Hill at 278 metres (912 ft) but Canada Hill to the south of Rothesay, although nowhere near as high, can be reached by car. The above view looking north was taken from the bench at the small lay-by near the top.

Historical attractions on the island include 13th century Rothesay Castle (below), the ruined 12th century St Blane's Chapel and another similar structure dating from the 6th century, plus Mount Stuart House which is often cited as one of the world's most impressive neo-Gothic mansions.

The Pavilion is a 1930s edifice housing a concert hall, workshops and café, which has hardly changed from when it was built. The 1920s Winter Gardens (above) (now the "Discovery Centre") close to the Rothesay Pier houses a small cinema and tourist information office.

Nearby are the Victorian-era toilets which surprisingly are often cited as one of Bute`s `must see` places of interest.

For a relatively small island, Bute has produced a surprising number of famous people with many others taking up residence. Those connected with the island include Lieutenant Henry Robertson `Birdie` Bowers (Born Greenock 1883–1912), a polar explorer who died with Scott in the Antarctic, Richard Attenborough (29 August 1923 – 24 August 2014), actor and film director who once owned the Rhubodach estate, the English Shakespearean actor Edmund Kean, (4 November 1787 – 15 May 1833), Johnny Dumfries (bn 1958), former Formula One racing driver and the current Marquess of Bute, plus local lass and singer Lena Zavaroni (4 November 1963 – 1 October 1999) .

Ettrick Bay with its sandy beach on Bute`s west coast is a popular spot with locals and visitors alike, especially in summer.

Scalpsie Bay, also on the west coast, to the south of Ettrick Bay, is another picturesque location with superb views across to Arran and the Holy Isle.

During the industrial era, from the late 19th to mid-20th century, Rothesay and other Clyde Coast seaside resorts such as Dunoon, Helensburgh, Largs and Millport, were popular holiday destinations with the Glasgow workers and their families. Steamships enabled people to escape the city`s grime and pollution in a practice known as going ‘Doon the Watter’ with many vessels leaving from quays right in the city centre. Most could only afford day trips but the more affluent could spend a week or perhaps two on the `Costa del Clyde`.

Soon the expanding railway network added to the competitive fleet of paddle steamers ensuring an even more swift and sure means of travel. For example, passengers could jump on a train to Helensburgh or Greenock and board their ship there. By the turn of the 20th century the practice had become particularly popular during the Glasgow Fair holiday weekend when spaces on board trains and boats, plus hotel and guest house accommodation, were all at a premium. By the 1950s, however, the era of affordable air fares to Europe and favourable currency exchange rates effectively ended the mass exodus to the Clyde Coast resorts, although even nowadays bookings on the Waverley and occasionally other vessels that offer cruises ‘Doon the watter’ can still fill up fast.

Above The Waverley, the world`s last sea-going paddle steamer approaches Rothesay pier. Above Right: The east coast of Bute: Port Bannatyne in the middle distance and Rothesay Bay beyond. The following shots, taken on my first seaplane trip, show Port Bannatyne and the mouth of Loch Striven.

During the Second World War, between 1942 and 1945, the Kyles Hydropathic Hotel at Port Bannatyne became HMS Varbel, the Headquarters of the 12th Submarine Flotilla. The unit`s midget submarines and human torpedoes went on to operate in Norway, Italy and the Far East. HMS Varbel was named after the combined names of Commander Varley and Commander Bell, who were credited with designing the original midget submarine.

The waters of the Firth of Clyde, including Loch Striven, were ideal for training as the long, narrow sea lochs with mountains rising from their shore could replicate the Norwegian Fjords where the biggest individual threat to Allied shipping lay - the formidable Tirpitz. Loch Cairnbawn, a sea loch in northwest Sutherland near Kylesku, was another location where similar training took place.

Although the battleship never saw action against an Allied convoy or naval fleet, by the time 1943 drew to a close she was the last heavy warship left to the Kriegsmarine and too great a threat for the British to ignore.

A Chariot attack and a number of heavy bomber raids had all failed but in September 1943, following months of preparation, parent submarines towing six X-Craft, each with a four-man crew, set off for Norway for another attack. Only two eventually reached Tirpitz and placed their charges which caused serious if not fatal damage. It was a remarkable achievement and the battleship was put out of action for six months and didn`t leave her anchorage until April 1944. Following the action, various medals were awarded to the X-craft crews including two VCs.

As well as a War Memorial honouring the men of North Bute who lost their lives in both World Wars, Port Bannatyne has a memorial garden dedicated to the men of the Midget Submarines. It was unveiled in 2005 and features a cairn, a crest and a framed photograph of the Kyles Hydropathic Hotel which has long-since been demolished. Slates bear the code numbers of all X-craft lost.

These Imperial War Museum images show Chariot and X-Craft crews boarding at Port Bannatyne and training in Loch Striven during WW2.

Right: English scientist, engineer and inventor Sir Barnes Wallis (26 September 1887 - 30 October 1979). As well as being heavily utilised for X-Craft training, Loch Striven was also used to test Highball, a follow-up to the Barnes Wallis bouncing bomb, successfully used in the Dambusters Raid of 1943. It was realised that a similar, much smaller weapon could potentially damage and hopefully destroy moored battleships as the bombs could skip over anti-torpedo nets.

As a result numerous tests were carried out over Loch Striven by three modified Mosquitoes of No.618 Squadron based at RAF Turnberry, near Girvan in Ayrshire. A rare photograph of one of these aircraft is shown above. An obsolete French Navy battleship was moored in the loch to act as a target and despite it being surrounded by large catchment nets, numerous re-usable dummy practice bombs ended up on the seabed. Recent scans plotted the position of many as well as the possible wreck of a Chariot or X-craft midget submarine and several bombs have since been recovered. The Highball bouncing bombs were never used in anger.

The small but very interesting Bute Museum in Rothesay has displays on the naval activity which took place in the surrounding waters and exhibits include the bell from HMS Varbel. which was acquired when the station closed. The bell originally belonged to the London Merchant which was renamed SS Politician in 1935. The vessel, bound for the USA, sank off Eriskay in February 1941 with a precious cargo of whisky much of which was salvaged by the islanders! The incident was immortalised in Compton Mackenzie`s novel Whisky Galore and the 1949 film by Ealing Studios that followed. It`s unclear exactly how the bell ended up at the Naval station on Bute.

Above: This aerial shot taken above Dunoon looks across to Gourock and Greenock with the Cloch lighthouse just visible on the far bank, to the right of the ferry heading over to the Renfrewshire side.

The tip of the Rosneath peninsula can be seen on the left with the east end of Helensburgh beyond. Just a couple of miles to the east of the Cloch, but not visible in the above view, is Lyle Hill, a superb vantage point, especially when the Cowal and Luss Hills, as well as many of the higher peaks beyond are in view. A bit of snow on the tops makes all the difference.

The Cloch Lighthouse, designed by Thomas Smith and his son-in-law Robert Stevenson, was completed in 1797.

Greenock`s Ocean Terminal is visited by a growing number of cruise ships each year, some of which are among the world`s largest. One of the most memorable events I managed to photograph from Lyle Hill was in October 2008 when the QE2 visited the Clyde for the last time. As befitting the great liner`s arrival on such a historic occasion she was escorted by a wide variety of vessels including HMS Ark Royal (R07) and the French Navy`s Amphibious Assault Helicopter Carrier FS Tonnerre (L9014) - miraculously even the weather played along and the sun was shining! Cunard`s Queen Mary 2 (above left) was photographed from the same spot several years later.

In July 2011, despite my disappointment of not managing to get a view of the Tall Ships from the seaplane during my first flight, I got some decent shots from Lyle Hill two days later when the vessels set off from Greenock on the next leg of their journey. The viewpoint was understandably much busier than usual.

Conditions were a bit overcast to begin with when the Red Arrows put on their display but the sun finally broke through, just in time for the `Parade of Sail`, and the passengers in the seaplane got a great view of the action that day.

Despite some cloud blowing in, Rhu Spit, Helensburgh and the southern end of Loch Lomond including Inchmurrin Island, are all visible in the above view of Kilcreggan. This shot was taken just five minutes before landing. Below is a closer view of the village, plus the nearby Rosneath Castle Park, both of which are potentially good vantage points for photographing naval vessels heading in or out of Faslane.

Please bear in mind that all images on this website are Copyright. They are not free to use and have been embedded with a digital watermark. Any historic photographs from the Imperial War Museum and other organisations` collections have been used courtesy of a `Share & Reuse` policy and are also subject to copyright restrictions.

Turning in to land - the passengers on this small boat alongside Inchmurrin Island must have had a great view of the seaplane as G-LAUD descended overhead. My trip, which lasted around 45 minutes and covered 120 miles, was superb and the staff were all friendly and very welcoming - you even get a glass of Prosecco when you get back on dry land. I hope to take one of the alternative trips next time, heading inland when there`s plenty of snow on the tops - that could be potentially even more spectacular.

Top of Page

Latest Seaplane Flight: October 2019

Return to Scotland: Aircraft main page