Namibia
Namib-Naukluft National Park
Sossusvlei
On my wife and I`s first fortnight-long holiday in Namibia we initially drove south from Windhoek to explore the Namib-Naukluft Desert before driving north to take in the Skeleton Coast, Walvis Bay, Swakopmund, Damaraland, Vingerklip and Etosha National Park. We`d booked a couple of nights at Desert Homestead which is in range of the world famous dunes and vleis (dried-up lake beds) of the Sossusvlei section of the Namib-Naukluft National Park. Although we really enjoyed our stay at the `Homestead it was 35 km away from the entrance at Sesriem so accommodation closer to the main points of interest may have been a better option, especially as our time here was limited.
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The morning after arriving at Desert Homestead we left our chalet while it was still dark and on arrival at Sesriem joined a queue of around a dozen vehicles waiting for the gates to open at 07:20 hrs. This is the understandably the most popular part of the vast and stunning desert and access is controlled. Rather than have visitors queue for permits at sunup and miss out on the best time for photography, a Park official notes details of vehicles and occupants and waves everyone through, allowing permits to be purchased on the way out.
Once inside the park, the 64 km drive between the sand dunes, some of which are the biggest in the world, to reach the dried-up lake beds or vleis which Sossusvlei is justly famous for, is nothing short of spectacular and photographic opportunities abound. I could easily have spent four or five full days exploring the various locations here but only managed to check out a very small area during a morning visit. |
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This monument commemorates the Namib Sand Sea being recognised as an UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Sesriem Canyon (not shown), around 4km from the park entrance, can be explored on foot. The 30 metre-deep, narrow fissure has been carved through the sandstone by the Tsauchab River, and got its name when early settlers drew water from its depths by knotting together six lengths of hide rope, known locally as riems, hence 'ses riems'.
The trees in the far distance in the above view mark the line of the Tsauchab, one of two great rivers that flow westward across the desert but are barred from reaching the Atlantic Ocean by the huge dunes. The rivers do, however, bring the vleis to life as although they appear dry on the surface, their permanent underground supply sustains hardy trees and other vegetation. When the rains eventually do appear, the river valleys can often flood spectacularly.
After hours of driving on hard-packed gravel to reach the area, it's a welcome relief to find that the main road through the park, i.e. from Sesriem to Sossusvlei is made of tarmac and in excellent condition. The park has four distinct environment types: The sand dunes of course, river valleys and pans, gravel plains and inselbergs and mountain tops.
At first glance it seems unlikely that animals could survive in such an arid landscape but antelope species such as Oryx / Gemsbok and Springbok are common.
Gemsbok, the quintessential desert antelope, are widespread throughout Namibia, from the coast to the interior highlands. Specially adapted capillaries in their nasal passages cool their blood before it reaches their brain, helping them to endure extremely high temperatures. Solitary animals are sometimes seen dramatically silhouetted against the morning sky, high up on a ridge of one of the park`s huge sand dunes.
Gemsbok, the quintessential desert antelope, are widespread throughout Namibia, from the coast to the interior highlands. Specially adapted capillaries in their nasal passages cool their blood before it reaches their brain, helping them to endure extremely high temperatures. Solitary animals are sometimes seen dramatically silhouetted against the morning sky, high up on a ridge of one of the park`s huge sand dunes.
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Heading for Sossusvlei.
Brazen Jackals roam the parking areas, totally ignoring people in their search for scraps. Ostrich seem to thrive here and a pair seen as specs towards the right hand side in the shot below clearly illustrate the size of these massive dunes.
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Above: At first glance it looks as though this Ostrich has been tasked with reminding drivers to stick to the park speed limit.
Dune 45: A view from the ridge.
If you have the time and energy to spare, climbing one of the huge dunes illustrates just how vast the area is. I chose Dune 45 (above), so named because it`s 45km from the park entrance. This is a very popular vantage point which reaches a height of almost 300 metres. Taking the honour of highest dune in the Sossusvlei area is `Big Daddy`, which at approximately 325 metres offers a birds-eye view of Deadvlei, while dwarfing nearby dunes including `Big Mama` which it faces. The Namib Desert`s `Daddy of them all`, however, is Dune 7 (not illustrated), which has been measured at 388m and was so named as it`s the 7th dune along the Tsauchab River.
Big Daddy.
The dark ridge of the long, low-lying dune in the foreground gives the impression that the side of the main dune is undercut.
The Sesriem to Sossusvlei road from Dune 45. The line of vegetation running across the frame hints at the permanent underground water source here.
My timing for an ascent of Dune 45 couldn`t have been better as I had the summit to myself for around 10 minutes before the first of the early hikers appeared and it was too windy to hang around much longer anyway. A quicker but less exciting descent from the top can be made by taking an easy angled slope on the east side of the dune and joining a trail which leads back to the car park. I stuck to the ridge on the way down and passed a bus load of people, many of whom were climbing up in their bare feet.
My shadow cast down the slope made an interesting abstract image.
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A walker takes a break during an ascent of Dune 45.
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Before checking out a couple of the vleis, I climbed one of the other dunes to get an elevated perspective of the area which was well-worth the effort.
Two people at the left hand corner give an idea of scale.
The circular route round the Vleis at the end of the main road, best tackled clockwise, is just sand and suitable for 4-wheel drives only. Even then, it`s a bit of a bumpy roller coaster ride in places but for those without a 4x4, there is a regular park truck which shuttles visitors between the various parking areas.
The main vleis which can be visited from here are, Sossuslvlei obviously, Nara Vlei, Hidden Vlei and Dead Vlei.
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There are about 200 species of Tok Tokkie Beetle in Namibia, around twenty of which have adapted to survive in the arid dunes. Although rain is very rare in the Namib Desert and along the Skeleton Coast, these tiny creatures perform a headstand during morning fogs which allows moisture to coat their body causing microscopic droplets to trickle into their mouths.
Left: These larger, mottled grey long-legged beetles were also common but could really move. This blurred shot was the best I could manage. |
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The morning flew by and with a sunset horse riding trip booked at Desert Homestead that afternoon, it meant that we`d be pushed for time if we checked-out Dead Vlei before heading back. Although we ended up missing out on what is one of the country`s most remarkable scenic attractions, we weren`t too disappointed considering what we`d already seen here.
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As this was our first visit to a Namibian National Park, we were unaware that permits had to purchased in the reception area rather than at the booths beside the exit and many other visitors, including this couple had also joined the ever increasing queue, expecting to pay at the gate. As a result, it took far longer to get out of the park than it did to get in!
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