Islands
The Bass Rock
*Page under construction*
The Bass Rock, or simply `The Bass`, in the Firth of Forth, is the place to go if you`re really into Gannets! With an estimated population of around 160,000 birds it`s the world`s largest single-island Gannet colony. Other species such as Shags, Razorbills, Guillemots and even Puffins, can also be found but in far fewer numbers. The Bass ranks as one of the world`s great wildlife spectacles and is a must for nature lovers and photographers. It`s not everyone`s cup of tea though as, apart from the horrendous stench, dead adult birds and chicks at different stages of development lie around in various states of decomposition attracting flies in hot weather.
Bass Rock, has a long and varied history. It`s mentioned in writings that date back to around the time of King Malcolm III of Scotland (Malcolm Canmore) with its first recorded owner being Sir Robert Lauder, who was granted the property around 1316. This family (Lauder of Bass) retained ownership of the rock for hundreds of years. The family crest is, aptly, a Gannet standing upon a rock. In addition to storing rainwater, the occupants in years gone by utilised a freshwater well right at the top of the island, where the modern-day foghorn is situated. During the 16th and 17th centuries there was sufficient grass present for a flock of 100 sheep to graze. Vegetables were also grown.
|
|
Baldred, an early Christian saint and hermit, lived on the Bass and died there in 756 AD. The ancient chapel, now in ruins, located high above the cliffs, was dedicated to him and built on the site of his cell or cave. The chapel was consecrated in the year 1542 and is thought to have been rebuilt by the Lauder family several times.
|
The island also served as a grim fortress and a notorious prison, housing various political enemies of James I during the 15th century and, again, in the 17th century after it was captured by Cromwell's forces. The small resident garrison had used their guns to harry his supply ships. For decades thereafter, religious and political prisoners, especially Covenanters were sent there including the Rev John Blackadder. This table grave monument contained in the kirkyard of North Berwick Parish Church marks his last resting place. The staunch Covenanter died on the Bass in 1686 after five years incarceration and his death made him a notable martyr to the cause. Jacobite troops were also incarcerated on the Rock. |
|
The curtain wall visible in this / these views dates from the 16th century and the fortifications were later developed for artillery. (dinghy shot) Sections of are in a remarkably good state of repair. (change)
|
|
By July 1897, due to the numerous vessels which had come to grief off the stretch of coast between Dunbar and North Berwick, it was decided that two lighthouses should be erected to assist mariners. Consequently, Barns Ness Lighthouse began operations in 1901, with the light on the Bass Rock illuminated for the first time on the evening of 1 November 1902. This derelict building passed on the climb is the unofficial toilet block. (For the visitors that is - the resident gannets `go` where they like so it`s best to wear old clothes and a wide-brimmed hat!)
I`ve been fortunate to set foot on the Bass Rock twice so far, having to reschedule just one of the dates due to unfavourable conditions. Landings are notoriously difficult with a success rate averaging around 60% most years. Even on fine days, tricky swells and strong tidal currents often make it too dangerous for small boats to tie up at the `Rock`s stone jetty. Although the sea may be calm in the morning, conditions can deteriorate rapidly and I`d imagine most clients wouldn`t be too happy if they were marooned here overnight - or even longer!
|
|
There are of course various non-landing cruises on offer which take visitors below the towering cliffs and these trips can be just as spectacular as stepping ashore.
|
With the numbers of Gannets on the Bass rising steadily each year, space is at a premium so many birds lay their eggs on low ledges, just a few feet above the water. These nest will likely be destroyed in the event of stormy weather.
|
|
Anyone can land on the Bass Rock but access to the lighthouse and the protected Gannet colony on the upper slopes is via an iron gate which only Seabird Centre staff have keys for. change* Photographers` excursions are organised by the Scottish Seabird Centre at North Berwick and only a dozen people at a time, including the guide, are allowed ashore at any one time to minimise disturbance to the nesting birds. Depending on tide times you usually have between 3 and 5 hours on the island. I was initially disappointed to find that visitors are restricted to the approach path and a small chained-off area above the lighthouse, about halfway up on the west side of the Rock. I expected it to be like the Farne Islands where you follow marked trails that wind their way around but understandably the upper reaches of the Bass were out of bounds during the breeding season. Also, due to the sheer nature of the cliffs, safety is more of a concern here as there`s a greater risk of unsupervised visitors coming to grief if they wander off the paths. sign pic here |
|
Despite the restrictions, the photographic opportunities are tremendous although the proximity to the tens of thousands of gannets and the associated stench is initially overwhelming. Rucksacks are deposited on the wall of the ruined chapel and even during prolonged dry spells, the ground here comprises of a mix of muddy sludge and gannet droppings - not the best place to enjoy a picnic!
|
|
North Berwick
The seaside town of North Berwick is situated on the south shore of the Firth of Forth, approximately 20 miles (32 km) east-northeast of Edinburgh. North Berwick became a fashionable holiday resort in the 19th century because of its two sandy bays, the East (or Milsey) Bay and the West Bay, and remains popular with holidaymakers to this day. This stretch of coast is popular with golfers, who are drawn here thanks to a number of fine courses, some of which host major tournaments. North Berwick has two courses, one at the end of each bay, which are open to visitors.
Although the Seabird Centre is located at North Berwick, landing trips usually leave from Dunbar rather the Seabird Centre`s base but if there`s a problem with the regular boat, departures are sometimes made from the North Berwick. North Berwick info change* exceptionally low tides can prove problematical.
|
|
Pudding-shaped North Berwick Law (187m / 613ft) rises above the town and its summit makes a superb vantage point on a fine day.
etc // Local lore, place names, and the jawbone arch atop Berwick Law erected in 1709, suggest that the port was involved in the whaling industry though there is little written evidence left to prove it. In any event it would have been overshadowed by nearby Leith. Certainly whales have been known to have washed ashore here; regularly over the years, even in recent times. (to edit)*
etc // Local lore, place names, and the jawbone arch atop Berwick Law erected in 1709, suggest that the port was involved in the whaling industry though there is little written evidence left to prove it. In any event it would have been overshadowed by nearby Leith. Certainly whales have been known to have washed ashore here; regularly over the years, even in recent times. (to edit)*
North Berwick is a popular base with sailors and various other watersports are on offer here. The town`s RNLI Lifeboat Station is visible in the above view.
A pair of bird sculptures stand outside the Scottish Seabird HQ. You would expect a Gannet to feature but this is a bronze sculpture of a Tern. King Penguins, however, seem a bit misplaced on Scotland`s East Coast but this fine work featuring three of these popular birds was donated in memory of local sculptor George Graham.
|
|
|
Right: This life-size bronze figure outside the Centre was unveiled in March this year. It was sculpted by acclaimed Scottish artist Kenny Hunter, best known for his Citizen Firefighter figure which stands outside Glasgow Central Station. 
|
|
Also overlooking the beach is the RAF WW2 Coastal Command Memorial. It not only commemorates the personnel of RAF Coastal Command who lost their lives in the Second World War but also recognises the vital role Coastal Command played in defeating the Nazi U-boat menace and protecting the shipping lanes.It is one of two such memorials in the UK, each named `Constant Endeavour` which was the motto of Coastal Command. The other is located within London`s Westminster Abbey. Scotland was strategically important for operations in both the Battle of the Atlantic and the North Sea. Long-range flying boats were based on the coast at Oban, Invergordon and Sullom Voe, and many other types of aircraft flew missions from inland airfields dotted around the country. It is fitting therefore that one of the memorials should be placed north of the border.
|
|
One of the aircraft most associated with Coastal Command is the Short Sunderland Flying Boat, many of which were built by the Blackburn Aircraft Company at Dumbarton on the Clyde. (Duxford pic). At its peak the factory employed around 4,000 workers who built several different types of aircraft, including the iconic Sunderland which was nick-named the `Flying Porcupine` by the Germans due to its impressive array of defensive firepower. It served in various theatres of war and proved successful in a variety of roles including that of a submarine-hunter with Coastal Command. The Dumbarton factory went on to build around 250 of these magnificent machines out of a total of 749. Initially a purpose-built barge transported completed planes out onto the Clyde for launch, however, in 1939, a slipway was constructed which allowed them to taxi into the water under their own power and manoeuvre, ready for take-off. Only five examples of the Short Sunderland remain, including UK preserved examples at the RAF Museum, Hendon, and the Imperial War Museum at Duxford, seen here.
Tantallon Castle
Just along the coast from North Berwick distance?? etc Tantallon Castle, stands atop a cliff overlooking the southern Firth of Forth and was once one of the most formidable fortresses in Southern Scotland. Dating from the mid-14th century, the castle was built by William Douglas whose family supported Robert the Bruce during the Wars of Independence. The Bass Rock lies just offshore. In the 16th century a curtain wall was built close to the landing stage and the Rock became an artillery platform.
|
|
Tantallon Castle has a long and complex history suffering three great sieges, namely those in 1491, 1528 and 1651, the latter by Oliver Cromwell. Over a twelve day period, Cromwell`s guns reduced the castle`s defences to such an extent that the garrison surrendered and Tantallon was never reoccupied either as a castle or residence. Mary Queen of Scots visited Tantallon in 1566.
Late August or early September is probably a better time to visit the Bass Rock than early June as, although fairly late in the season, breeding still takes place as do the associated mating displays, and chicks can be seen at all stages of development. Guga is the name given to young Gannets and they were harvested on a large scale on St Kilda and the outlying Western Isles in years gone by although limited numbers can still be taken under licence.
There is a terrific view of the Bass Rock from Tantallon Castle.
|
|
|
"Wink wink, nudge nudge." "Say no more, say no more!"
Dunbar
Dunbar info: John Muir
|
|
The earliest parts of Dunbar Castle date from the 12th century although there has been a stronghold here from at least the 7th century. Dunbar was once one of the most important castles in Scotland and had to be captured by any invading force or its garrison otherwise neutralised. In 1296, Edward I `the Hammer of the Scots`, crossed the border into Scotland with a powerful army to punish King John Balliol for his refusal to support England in its war against the French. Edward`s first obstacle was the border town of Berwick-on-Tweed which he captured after a siege. To teach the inhabitants a brutal lesson and show the rest of Scotland that resistance was futile, Edward had his troops torch the town and put the population to the sword. Although estimates vary widely it is thought that upwards of 15,000 men, women and children were slaughtered.
Edward`s next target was Dunbar. King John`s army, then encamped at Haddington to the west, moved to support the defenders. The opposing forces clashed at the Spott Burn (below) on 27 April and the English knights, led by John de Warenne, 6th Earl of Surrey, routed the Scots in a single charge. It is thought that the casualties were few, although around 100 Scottish lords, knights and men-at-arms were taken prisoner.
Edward`s next target was Dunbar. King John`s army, then encamped at Haddington to the west, moved to support the defenders. The opposing forces clashed at the Spott Burn (below) on 27 April and the English knights, led by John de Warenne, 6th Earl of Surrey, routed the Scots in a single charge. It is thought that the casualties were few, although around 100 Scottish lords, knights and men-at-arms were taken prisoner.
The following day King Edward arrived outside Dunbar Castle`s walls and with no further hope of reinforcement, the garrison surrendered. Over the following months numerous towns and castles throughout central and northern Scotland fell to Edward`s siege engines. John Balliol surrendered and was stripped of his royal vestments in a humiliating ceremony. He became the focus of contempt for many of his countrymen and was known for evermore by the nickname of Toom Tabard (empty coat).
On 3 September 1650, Dunbar was the scene of one of the largest and bloodiest battles in Scottish history. The English Parliamentarian army under the command of Oliver Cromwell succeeded in decisively defeating the larger Scottish Royalist army led by General David Leslie. Most of the action took place outside the town, again in the vicinity of the Spott Burn and adjacent Doon Hill. Cromwell`s victory left southern Scotland open and by December 1650, he had marched unopposed to Edinburgh and captured the city. A large amount of stone from the castle ruins was plundered in the 19th century to build the current harbour. The ruins are now in a dangerous condition and consequently are not open for exploration.
On 3 September 1650, Dunbar was the scene of one of the largest and bloodiest battles in Scottish history. The English Parliamentarian army under the command of Oliver Cromwell succeeded in decisively defeating the larger Scottish Royalist army led by General David Leslie. Most of the action took place outside the town, again in the vicinity of the Spott Burn and adjacent Doon Hill. Cromwell`s victory left southern Scotland open and by December 1650, he had marched unopposed to Edinburgh and captured the city. A large amount of stone from the castle ruins was plundered in the 19th century to build the current harbour. The ruins are now in a dangerous condition and consequently are not open for exploration.
The highlight for most on a Scottish Seabird Centre Photographers Trip to the Bass Rock isn`t actually being on the Rock itself but on the way back when the boat skipper throws out chum, usually small flounder-like fish, to entice the Gannets to dive. The frenzied action lasts around fifteen minutes as hundreds of Gannets plunge-dive often just a few feet from the boat. Although the birds can plummet onto their prey from a great height, here a shallow dive is sufficient to take the thrown fish before they sink below the surface. Nevertheless it`s a superb wildlife spectacle. Birds squabble for fish as others dart into the water immediately alongside, not always avoiding a collision.
|
|
Above: The Gannet on the right is about to plunge into the water clutching a large feather in it`s bill! I assume it was on its way back to its nest when it saw the chum being dished out and although reluctant to drop its trophy, was unable to resist an easy meal.
This inquisitive seal came right up to the boat as it pulled up to the Dunbar quayside on my first trip. Our skipper said that it`s a regular feature at the harbour and will take a fish right out of your hand. Unfortunately the ones on our boat all went overboard on the way back from the Bass Rock to feed the gannets. Better luck next time!