Hills & Mountains
The Islands: Skye
Low Level & Coastal Walks (North)
*I am in the process of redesigning this section to include notes and many more high-res shots*
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Intro* This section covers coastal and low-level walks in the Island`s northern half from, Rubha Hunish at the very top, to ??? etc. South from there to the Point of Sleat at the extreme south etc. Cliff walks included*
Rubha Hunish
Skye`s Cuillin Mountains are a magnet for hillwalkers and many visitors will only consider a coastal walk when the high tops are blotted out by cloud. The Island`s rugged coastline merits a visit in fine weather too so don`t just wait for a dull day as the views out to sea can be sensational. One of the best coastal excursions Skye has to offer is a walk to the Rubha Hunish peninsula, the Winged-Isle`s most northerly point.
The peninsula is on the right in the above view behind the Duntulm Castle Hotel with the low ruin of Duntulm Castle on the left*.
Just east of Duntulm near Kilmaluag, a rough track leads across the rising moorland for two kilometres to an immense drop. Sheer cliffs seem to bar progress and prevent a descent onto the inviting grassy spit of land below but there is a path, albeit very steep, which hugs the rockface. It looks worse than it actually is and the most exposed section, on the seaward side, is protected by a thin blade of rock. In the above shot, the path to the low-lying ground slants from the right-hand side of the saddle in the centre of the cliffs.
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The peninsula is a great place to linger, with its panorama out across the Minch to the distant hills of Harris which lie in an unbroken line. Seabirds soar past, apparently using the island`s tip as an aiming point and looking back, on top of the towering cliff you`ve just descended (below), an abandoned Coast Guard Lookout, juts above the skyline. It must have been a lonely posting in its heyday and although the structure fell into disrepair it has been restored by the Mountain Bothy Association and can be used as a temporary shelter.
Ships in the Minch such as Yeoman Bontrup (above) often come fairly close to land here as do marine mammals such as dolphins, whales and porpoises especially in July and August. Yeoman Bontrup is one of three bulk carriers that operate out of the Glensanda 'super quarry', the others being Yeoman Bridge and Yeoman Bank. These ships are the largest, self discharging, aggregate carrying vessels in the world.
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In spring and early summer, Shags, Fulmar, assorted Gulls, Hooded Crows, Raven and Rock Doves, all nest on the cliffs and adjacent sea stacks. The terrain away from the cliff edge regularly plays host to Ringed Plover who soon let you know if you inadvertently stray too close to their eggs. There are a few places along the peninsula`s cliffs that offer good views of the nesting seabirds including Fulmars and Razorbills (below) but great care is required.
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If time and energy allow, it`s worth checking-out the ruin of Duntulm Castle (below). It was built on the site of an Iron Age stronghold and later used by invading Norsemen due to its commanding position. The MacLeods and their rivals, the MacDonalds, have each occupied the castle at some point and more than a few dastardly deeds have taken place in its dungeons. (to edit*)
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Standing beside the road above Duntulm Castle is this memorial cairn to the MacArthurs who were hereditary pipers to the MacDonalds of the Isles. Their School of Piping stood at nearby Peingown. The inscription in Gaelic, translates as "The World will end but Love and Music endureth".
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Claigan Coral Beach
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This short, easy walk to a terrific beach is suitable for all ages with only a couple of very slight uphill sections. The route begins at the end of the single-track road that continues northward from Dunvegan Castle to Claigan. just remember to leave plenty of time to get to the start - even usually quiet roads on Skye can get congested at any time of the year!
A trail from the parking area soon runs parallel to the coast offering good views westward across Loch Dunvegan with the flat-top twins of MacLeod's Tables visible in the distance to the south. Ignore the first bay composed of mainly rounded black stones and aim for the prominent gap in the drystone wall ahead.
The going is good, on short cropped grass for the most part. The path climbs a small rise and thereafter the coral beach, startlingly white and tropical-looking under sunny skies, is revealed in all its glory.
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The sand isn`t actually coral but is composed of snail shells and maerl, tiny particles of calcified seaweed that grows in sheltered spots around the coast. Locals use the sand as fertiliser on their crofts to neutralise the soil in the area as it`s very acidic.
The small steep sided rocky bump at the north end of the beach is known as Cnoc Mor a' Ghrobain which can be climbed in a few minutes - well worth doing for the panoramic views. The hills of Harris can be seen in the far distance including Clisham which, at 799 metres, is the highest summit in the Outer Hebrides.
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The islands just offshore are Lampay and Isay, the latter being the slightly larger of the two. It is possible to walk out to Lampay at very low tides. Few visitors continue around the coast from the coral beach to Lovaig Bay which, although only around a kilometre further on, has a far wilder atmosphere with the cliffs of Rubha nam Both rising on its eastern side.
The Hoe
A superb circular walk visiting Hoe Rape, a low-lying grassy headland, begins at the tiny settlement of Ramasaig which is reached by a minor road off the B884 that runs from Glendale to Neist Point. The view above, taken from this minor road, shows the Neist Point lighthouse. Cars can be parked at the Ramasaig road end and a muddy track continues south toward the abandoned village of Lorgill. A line of low hills to the west block any views out to sea until Lorgill Bay. It was here, in 1830, that the local crofters were loaded on to a ship bound for Nova Scotia after being forced from their homes to make way for sheep farming during the Highland Clearances.
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Strike up the hillside to gain the cliff edge and as you climb MacLeod`s Maidens (above), a trio of dramatic sea stacks, backed by the Cuillins, gradually come into view, far to the south.
Looking inland, the distinctive flat-topped hills of Healabhal Mhor and Healabhal Bheag, known as MacLeod`s Tables rise above the moorland. 
The route continues north along the cliff tops to Hoe Rape, eventually reaching Ramasaig Bay, the only point on this stretch that gives access to the sea. An eroded cliff-top path can be followed for much of the way but great care is required as it often passes very close to the edge - it`s a long way down!
There is usually plenty of activity out at sea with freighters passing and seabirds such as Fulmar, often flying close to the cliff edge. During autumn migration tens of thousands of seabirds including Gannets and Kittiwakes can stream past every hour. |
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MacLeod`s Tables seen from the route along the cliff tops.
A good variety of plants and flowers can be seen depending on the season. Roseroot (below) is widespread here and easy to identify, unlike some of the other species. In summer Wheatear and Rock Pipits keep a curious eye on walkers heading along the cliffs.
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Below: As you continues northward the terrain eventually slopes down towards the low-lying headland known as Hoe Rape with Ramasaig, the starting point for this walk, just visible on the extreme right.
The lighthouse at Neist Point can be seen in the distance above the Hoe. Seabirds nest on the Hoe`s cliffs in summer whereas Oystercatcher prefer the rocky shore of Ramasaig Bay, immediately north. A return to the car can be made from the bay but Waterstein Head, one of the highest coastal cliffs on the island, lies to the north and makes a tempting extension to the walk. The shot below shows Waterstein Head from the north.
Neist Point
The lighthouse at Neist Point is a must-see and a walk north along the cliffs from the lighthouse car park is far shorter and far less taxing than the walk described but can be equally rewarding, especially when the sun is going down.
The engineer for the lighthouse, which was built in 1909, was David A Stevenson. It has been fully automated since 1990 and it`s light, with an output equivalent to 480,000 candles, can been seen from up to 24 miles way. The hills of Harris lie across the Minch.
The engineer for the lighthouse, which was built in 1909, was David A Stevenson. It has been fully automated since 1990 and it`s light, with an output equivalent to 480,000 candles, can been seen from up to 24 miles way. The hills of Harris lie across the Minch.
Neist Point from the Ramasaig road.
Talisker Bay
Talisker Bay stands on the west coast of the island and has one of Skye`s few sandy beaches, although this is not apparent unless the tide is well out. Otherwise, all you see is a surface of rounded boulders and stones with those at the water`s edge being churned up in the surf. The bay is fairly small but, with impressive cliffs at either end, it is very atmospheric. A fine sea stack (below) lies at the foot of the southern cliffs and its silhouette illustrates the toll the elements have taken on the coastal landscape here which bears the brunt of any storms. On wild days, like the one pictured here, the main waterfall is caught on the gale and blown upwards against the cliff and back over the rim in a cloud of spray.
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There is both white and black volcanic sand on the beach and the contrasting grains often merge to create strange patterns as the waves recede.
The name Talisker is most famously associated with the Talisker Distillery which lies at Carbost village, on the west side of Loch Harport, one of the islands many sea lochs. The distillery, the only one on Skye, lies in the dip, out of sight. (pic*) Take the minor road that heads westwards above the village, and continues across the moorland, to the tiny settlement of Talisker where the walk to the bay begins. The scenery on the island is spectacular throughout. This church sits above Carbost and has a superb outlook. (pic)* |
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The single-track public road comes to an end near Talisker House. Parking space is limited. Any strange bird calls you hear are likely to be Peacocks! A track signposted `To the bay` leads past Talisker House which dates from the 1720s and is now surrounded by mature trees in an effort to protect it from the wind. The house (below, on the left), a MacLeod property for centuries, was visited by Dr Johnson and James Boswell during their well-documented tour of the Hebrides. The track veers right, through a gate, with a steep hillside on the left running all the way to the bay. I`ve seen peregrines here several times. The track climbs slightly, just before the bay but this is an easy walk with a variety of scenery that far outweighs the effort expended.
Looking back, the rocky dome of Preshal Mor towers above the house and adjacent outbuildings. A line of cliffs form a ring round its western side but they can be breached. Boswell made the ascent with Donald MacLean, who was the then Laird of Coll, and the route they took up Preshal Mor`s cliffs was forever known as `Boswell's Buttress`. The northern cliffs are particularly impressive.
Looking back, the rocky dome of Preshal Mor towers above the house and adjacent outbuildings. A line of cliffs form a ring round its western side but they can be breached. Boswell made the ascent with Donald MacLean, who was the then Laird of Coll, and the route they took up Preshal Mor`s cliffs was forever known as `Boswell's Buttress`. The northern cliffs are particularly impressive.
The famous naturalist and author Seton Gordon (1886-1977) tells of a dramatic rescue that took place on the bay`s northern cliffs in days gone by. A local shepherd had been walking above the sheer face with his two sheepdogs when a large fox sprang from the heather directly ahead. The dogs immediately took off in pursuit but they, and their quarry, soon disappeared over the edge. It was too sheer for the shepherd to see what had happened but from a lower vantage point he saw the fox lying dead at the foot of the cliffs and just one of the dogs, still alive but trapped on a precarious ledge, halfway down the rock.
The shepherd obtained assistance from two islanders, one of whom was an experienced rock climber and, with a rope and pick axe, they made several attempts over the following week to reach the stranded animal. On the eighth day, their perseverance paid off and they finally managed to effect a rescue. Miraculously, the starving and badly shaken sheepdog made a full recovery!
The shepherd obtained assistance from two islanders, one of whom was an experienced rock climber and, with a rope and pick axe, they made several attempts over the following week to reach the stranded animal. On the eighth day, their perseverance paid off and they finally managed to effect a rescue. Miraculously, the starving and badly shaken sheepdog made a full recovery!
Dun Beag Broch
Not an actual walk as such but it`s worth taking this short stroll up the hillside to check out Dun Beag, a fine example of an Iron Age dry-stane (dry-strone) hollow-walled structure unique to Scotland, known as a Hebridean broch. There is a designated parking area by the roadside with an information board and the broch, which is only a few hundred metres away, is under the care of Historic Scotland and can be inspected at any time. Numerous examples remain on the mainland as well as in the western and northern isles.
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Dun Beag is situated on Skye`s west coast, just under 13km (8 miles) south of Dunvegan, in a commanding position with panoramic views across Loch Bracadale. The well-preserved ruins include an entrance passageway, an adjoining cell and stairway.
Records show that the broch itself was occupied until the 18th century and finds from the site have included pottery, bronze objects, glass beads and coins spanning the reigns of several monarchs, some of which are currently on display in the National Museum of Scotland, Edinburgh.
The flat topped hills of Healabhal Mhor and Healabhal Bheag, known collectively as MacLeod`s Tables, lie in the distance beyond Loch Bracadale.