Hills & Mountains
Glen Shiel
*I am in the process of redesigning this section to include notes and many more high-res shots*
Again, this is a loosely defined area and includes both sides of Glen Shiel and the north side of Loch Hourn etc* Also Beinn Fhada
The South Glen Shiel Ridge
The Saddle
THE SADDLE (1010m)
SGURR NA FORCAN (965m)
Dates
SGURR NA FORCAN (965m)
Dates
The Saddle, at the west end of Glen Shiel, is regarded as one of the classic Highland hills and the most entertaining way to its summit is via the jagged Forcan Ridge. This leads to the subsidiary peak of Sgurr na Forcan and further scrambling is required to reach the main summit. I`ve climbed this Munro twice, initially with a friend from work via its southern flank when gales, frequent squally showers and wet rock made it a safer option than a full traverse. There was no view from the top. These shots were all taken during my second ascent - another cloudy day but conditions much improved. The most popular approach is from the A87 road where a stalker`s path leads from a parking area near Achnangart quarry in Glen Shiel, almost to the foot of the Forcan.
Above: Starting out on the Forcan. The stalkers` path continues all the way across the grassy bump in the centre to the foot of the ridge. The north side of Glen Shiel, including some of the Five Sisters peaks, can be seen in the background.
Looking east along the length of Glen Shiel on the first rest stop at the bottom of the ridge.
As you climb the view opens up to Loch Duich.
My companions for the day, Graham and Euan work their way along the ridge.
|
|
Looking out to the western seaboard from the top of The Saddle.
From the top of the Saddle, it`s relatively easy to tag-on an adjacent Munro, Sgurr na Sgine (above) and its northwest top. Then follows a steep, knee-jarring descent to the floor of Glen Shiel from Faochag, a cone-shaped peak that derives its name from the Gaelic for Whelk. A short walk alongside the road takes you back to the car.
The Five Sisters of Glen Kintail
The Five Sisters of Kintail from the Mam Ratagan pass.
NAMES
Date?
Date?
Ben Fhada & A` Ghlas-bheinn
BEINN FHADA (1032m)
A` GHLAS-BHEINN (918m)
June 1991 (exact date not recorded)
A` GHLAS-BHEINN (918m)
June 1991 (exact date not recorded)
|
Beinn Fhada is well named as it means `Long Hill` in Gaelic. The mountain extends almost 9 kilometres from east to west and occupies an area equal to all Five Sisters of nearby Glen Shiel.
The summit is well-screened and hidden from anyone driving along the shore of Loch Duich with the knobbly ridge of Sgurr a` Choire Ghairbh being the only part of the mountain visible. Beinn Fhada, also known as Ben Attow, lies within National Trust for Scotland territory and is therefore accessible at all times of the year. Another Munro, A` Ghlas-bheinn, lies to the north and can easily be combined with its larger neighbour, although it forms part of the Inverinate estate and there may be restrictions during the stalking season. |
|
The most popular route of ascent for both these hills begins at the Forestry Commission car park at Dorusduain. They can also be climbed from the Alltbeithe Youth Hostel to the east but this approach is far longer. I took the standard route, along the stalker`s path to the Bealach an Sgairne which connects these two mountains. Thereafter, I followed the Meall a` Bhealaich ridge to Fhada`s summit, walked out to the west top, then retraced my route back to the bealach. From the summit of A` Ghlas Bheinn I descended via its north west ridge then cut south to rejoin the path. These two shots, scanned from 35mm prints, are the only two I have to remind me of my day.
This is Clachan Duich, a ruined church that lies beside the main Inverness to Kyle of Lochalsh road, near the head of Loch Duich. The west end of the Ben Fhada massif rises on the right. The churchyard was the traditional burial ground of Clan MacRae. The building itself was used until 1855 after which it was declared structurally unsafe.
Beinn Sgritheall
BEINN SGRITHEALL (974m)
Climbed twice, 2nd time incl subsidiary top*
Climbed twice, 2nd time incl subsidiary top*
A distant view of Beinn Sgritheall from Skye`s Sleat peninsula on a stormy day.
Intro* The mainland route to the start of the most popular way up this mountain is via the 339 metre-high Mam Ratagan Pass from Shiel Bridge, on the main Inverness to Skye road. The route over the pass, which winds its way uphill in a series of hairpins, was originally one of Caulfield`s military roads.
On the other side, you pass through the picturesque village of Glenelg etc* with its elaborate war memorial - nearby - Bernera Barracks etc A small car ferry plies the Kylerhea Narrows between Skye and Glenelg village in summer.
|
|
This striking, large and complex memorial at the remote Highland village of Glenelg initially seems very much out of place with the surrounding countryside.Three bronze figures stand on a stone plinth overlooking the Sound of Sleat, namely a kilted Cameron Highlander, a kneeling female figure with raised arms representing humanity and winged Victory holding a laurel wreath high above them. Detail includes a strangled dove, smashed crown and ruptured drumskin. The Memorial was designed and sculpted by Louis Reid Deuchars (1870-1927) while Sir Robert Lorimer oversaw the project.
A Glenelg reflection.
Bernera (below) was the last of four forts built by the government at strategic points across the Highlands to subdue the local population with Jacobite sympathies and control movement across the Highlands. The barracks are visible in the distance in the above view, just up from the bow of the left-hand rowing boat.* Unless ships brought in men and supplies, the barracks here could only by reached on foot or horseback via a long climb from the head of Loch Duich over the Mam Ratagan Pass which reaches a height of 1,100 feet. Not an attractive proposition, especially in winter.
Construction work on the barracks took place between 1717 and 1723 and, as was often the case in the Highlands, local brochs provided a convenient source of stone. Bernera was conceived as more of a deterrent than a major military base and its defensive features were limited. It was built to accommodate regular Hanoverian garrisons who patrolled the countryside in an attempt to disrupt potential nests of insurrection following the Jacobite risings of the early 1700s. Although the barracks lie in a fairly isolated location, at the time of their construction the short crossing to Skye via the Kylerhea Narrows was one of the most convenient routes to and from the island and was well used as a result.
The area became much busier at droving time when large herds of cattle would be forced to plunge in and swim across the narrows, during their long journey southwards to the great Cattle Fairs or Trysts in Central Scotland. The Government troops who were garrisoned here could control the crossing if rebel activity made it necessary.
The area became much busier at droving time when large herds of cattle would be forced to plunge in and swim across the narrows, during their long journey southwards to the great Cattle Fairs or Trysts in Central Scotland. The Government troops who were garrisoned here could control the crossing if rebel activity made it necessary.
|
|
There are two twin-gabled, three and a half storey-high barrack blocks, one on either side of a courtyard which were each capable of accommodating two companies of 120 men in twelve, almost square, fire-lit rooms. Also included in the main blocks or outbuildings would have been bake and brew houses, guardrooms and officers' quarters. The barracks seem to have become ruinous shortly after its troops were withdrawn in 1797. Nowadays, they remain in a dangerous condition and have been fenced-off to discourage public access. There have been various plans to renovate the property but so far all have failed to materialise. (to edit*)
Dun Telve (above) and Dun Troddan, better known as the Glenelg Brochs, are the best preserved Iron Age forts on the Scottish mainland. They stand in a picturesque wooded location further up the glen, within 500m of each other and date from sometime between the 4th century BC and end of the 1st century AD.
Dun Telve in particular is unrivalled on the Scottish Mainland for the degree to which it survives. A section of wall rises to approximately 10 metres, even though the brochs were plundered for stone during the construction of Bernera Barracks in the 18th century. With large sections missing, the wall cross-sections reveal their ingenious double-skinned construction. The outer wall tapers towards the top while the inner wall is vertical with bridging slabs tying the two together.
|
|
The structures were probably roofed with timber and thatch, incorporating smoke holes. Staircases connected storage areas and thatched living platforms that had been secured to the inner wall at several levels. Excavations were carried out in 1914 and 1922 and a stone hearth was found in the centre of each broch. The view* from the entrance to Dun Troddan, looking down the glen towards Dun Telve. Even in ancient times this West Highland glen would likely have been a very green and fertile place. Dun Troddan sits higher on the hillside. Its surviving wall rises to over 7 metres and there is also an intact section of stairway. (to edit*)
A hazy view of Beinn Sgritheall from The Saddle at the west end of Glen Shiel.